Crown Chair, Ca 1955, Los Angeles

The chair was made in
Los Angeles, California,
by the father of our client.
He was an  upholsterer
at the Crown Company
in downtown lalaland.

All the innards were
cleaned and restored exactly
as they were originally.
The new showcover
is reminiscent of the
original fabric from 1955.

The original fabric was intact; MPFC salvaged some from the outside back of it to make pillows for our client, allowing a bit of the history to be played out in the conservation.

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A Folding Journal of an MPFC Project

Guest post from Kate’s Art Blog, dkatiepowellart.

I don’t enter many competitions, but the Sketching Work competition
for the Centre for Transformative Work Design out of Perth AU was easy for me
as I sketch our lives and work quite a lot, and was thrilled
to create a pen + ink + watercolor folded journal.

I kind of didn’t want to send it; the images were sweet.
I have never had an entry returned, but thankfully, when I lost,
they did the honorable thing and returned it!

The winning entries are lovely!

The point of the competition was to tell the story of a workplace,
what it did and what made it a joyful place to work… Instead of assuming I knew,
I took Mitchell seriously as a subject and interviewed him.

The interview was sent separately, and is below:

Mitchell and I work together in our conservation firm,
MPF Conservation. 
Mitchell bought his brother-in-law’s upholstery shop at 23. Fascinated with traditional forms (unlike his brother-
in-law), he hired skilled European traditional journeymen to amend his training. Several men trained him to become the conservator of museum antiquities he is today. 
It was really fun interviewing Mitchell; some of the answers surprised me!

“I love uncovering ingenious historical fiber filled structural forms (sofas + chairs). I enjoy taking soft materials (hair, cotton, coir) and turning them into structural elements with proper flex, comfort, and decorative beauty. A bit like making a cake!”

“I love that each project is completely different; unusual objects walk in the door all the time! I work on a mid-century modern piece one month and a 200-year-old piece the next, tassels and fringe one week and a leather bellow the next.”

“Sometimes I wish I occasionally worked with other talented upholsterers for the camaraderie and swapping skills. It can be lonely working every day by oneself. Having the shop cats, good friends, keeps my heart happy. It is a perk of owning the business. They can’t always be in the studio — they are banned when we have  museum projects, or if a client is allergic or if the show-cover is silk, though they have their nails trimmed weekly.”

* We are often in different rooms, and they are well-trained. *

“While projects last from 3-8 weeks, in each phase I’m doing something different. Woodworking, tailoring, hand-stitching, upholstering, and traditional finishes. The job is physically demanding, standing long hours, pulling heavy threads, hand-stitching, moving furniture, so as I get older, it can be taxing, but it also keeps me in shape!”

“Throwaway furniture has changed the demand for our skills, which means we must be competitive to obtain projects. “Average” folks don’t know that today’s “expensive” furniture is still shortly destined for the landfill. They don’t realize a lovely restored old sofa is less expensive than many they will buy & toss out within 2 decades! Our throwaway society has also made it difficult to obtain proper supplies in the USA; items are bought from France, Germany & England.”

“My most memorable project was conserving the Flemish Sofa that resides in the Hearst Castle Library. The most challenging was the first time I conserved an original mid-century Egg Chair by Arne Jacobsen ca. 1960… An engineering feat!”

(Flemish Sofa and Egg Chair!  Guess I better sketch them soon!)

I am sending you to my page of the competition but warning you that unfortunately
the scanning process for my competition entry was incorrect.
If you look at other’s work know that this may be so for them as well!
The colors on this page are accurate.

I love my entry; I  wish I’d won.  Our journal now lives on in the reception area!

By the way, Kate is available
for hire as an artist! 

Do you have an event or
keepsake or place you want sketched?

To hear about classes, follow me on Facebook
or check out my new, improved dkatiepowellart.com

Posted in antiques, chair, conservation techniques, French Furniture, preservation, process, restoration techniques, tools, traditional varnishes, upholstery | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Thursday Throwback: A Family of Lawsons Graces the Farm


This is our continuing Throwback series where we post items
that were in our studio before we had the blog.

Grandpa’s Lawsons are born again for an orchard in Southern Oregon;
Grandpa was on hand for delivery day, and even had the first sit!

From dilapidated to stunning.  Excavated to the frames; frames refitted as necessary.
All interior buildup was conserved.  Coil-Spring backs and seat decks, and spring core cushion — which by the way, are the most comfortable cushions ever built!
Traditional upholsterers and conservators restore and preserve the interior buildup,
which is a much better “sit.”  Most upholsterers do not know how to do this work:
they remove the original buildup and re-stuff seats and backs with foam.
This causes early breakdown of internals and is not nearly as comfy!

BTW, the ottoman both have fitted washable coverlets on them —
this is a working farm, and dirty boots are not uncommon!

The original fabric was intact, though if you sat on them you felt as if you would
hit the floor!  The grown-up kids wanted to freshen the look entirely.

 ©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use,
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Ode to the Upholsterer, Reprise

W00 HOOKERS COUCHHe’s stuffed a chair on every street,
or hassocks on which to put your feet.
A fainting couch for Ms Récamier,
looking Grecian but really fey.

W02 EGG AFTER 5 MPFCA modern Egg for Madmen there,
Took ten thousand hand stitches to be fair;
An Eastlake love seat whose threads were bare
Was given new life, it’s only fair!

W13 EASTLAKE SOFABED AFT 1MPFC

Mattresses made of coir and hair
His long needle made them square,
And before he bought his trusted Pfaff,
He had to keep a larger staff.

W13 EASTLAKE SOFABED AFT 4MPFCYou take for granted what you see,
But behind the saddle, the sofa, the seat,
Is a person who understands upholstery,
Who has a flair for passementerie!

W05H MPFC 2

Tassels thrill him with delight,
and not the ones that twirl in the night,
An unusual man I’ve got as my mate
Because he talks of gimp when on a date!

Real upholsterers still spit tacks
And use hide glue to mend frame’s cracks
He knows that biscuits make tufted backs,
His best friend’s are puppies and cats!

Upholstery conservators are a dying breed
The old skills falling out of fashion
But when you’ve sent new sofas to the dump
And you’ve paid a yen for the uncomfortable lump,
The foam’s collapsed, and left a lump,
And your family’s in a frump.
His trade will again be a needed deed,
And he’ll come racing on his white steed
Or you’ll be stuck in your cheap contraption.

For those of you who dare think twice
Who doubt his worth
Who’ll send them into dearth
It’s your buns who’ll pay the price!

~ by Kate and Mitchell Powell

American Antebellum Sofa

American Antebellum Sofa

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not for use on blogs without permission.

Posted in antiques, chair, conservation techniques, funny funny, process, restoration techniques, tailor, upholstery | Tagged , , , , | 12 Comments

Fu Dogs Treatment


Our client brought his small carved wooden guardian dogs to us for treatment.

Pairs of Chinese guardian lion statues are decorative, symbolic elements at the entrances to structures in many Asian countries.  Each is different, and should come in. pairs,
one sitting on each side of an entrance.  Simplistically, the male leans his paw
upon a ball representing power or supremacy over the worldly manifestations, while
the female often has her paw on a cub representing nurture.  They are yang to yin.

The term “Fu” may be a transliteration to 佛, pinyin: fó or 福, pinyin: fú, which means Buddha or prosperity.  In Asia they are seldom referred to as “dogs”, but are considered Lion statues, as lions are protectors of Dharma, or the sacred teachings. Having owned Chow-chows, and wondering about lions in China, I always assumed they depicted Chows dogs, who are fierce protectors of their families and were used as warrior dogs.

The small statues were quit dirty, having never been cleaned to his knowledge.
Kate began cleaning all the tiny crevices with cotton swabs.  Dust, followed by embedded grime probably from normal household environments, was loosened and removed.

We then coated the wooden statues with a blend of warmed waxes and resins.

Between each coat they were allowed to thoroughly dry under warm lights.

Each statues lovely carvings and personality brightened.
The original finish was enhanced and protected, not refinished.

©MPF Conservation
May be printed for your own use ONLY, not for use on blogs without permission.

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Modern Textile Art is Often Not Created for Conservation


One of the biggest challenges in conservation is when the artists were not thinking about their pieces being loved and collected, and eventually, cleaned and conserved,
and work in mediums that are experimental (as in the case of early acrylics).
Most artists are simply creating, and so in our studio and in modern art museums around the world,  conservators are working on pieces that are fragile to treatment.

This is especially true of textile art, which is often exhibited unprotected from the elements — And part of the beauty is leaving it uncovered so that one can get close and see
and even feel (with clean hands) the lovely texture of the piece.

W14 2 10 ELLISFAM AFTER 66

Revisiting our conservation of Ken Ellis’ the Shore Family.
When I saw the images emailed to me they were interesting;
when I saw them in person I was bowled over.
Ellis hand painted his canvases, then embroidered and embellished…
Details in expression were simply lovely, like the eyes on the man above.
Painted canvas and embroidery created subtle expressions and nuances.

I am a huge believer in having artwork where you can love it daily…
BUT do it in an area that is the safest!
My advice is to think about where you put your textile…
away from the kitchen steams and greases, away from wood smoke,
and out of direct light is a good idea, but not always practical.

Our treatment was to clean as best we could a combination of wood smoke,
airborne grease, and steam without damaging the textile.
The Shore family was next to the kitchen for many years,
being loved over meals and coffee and daily activity.
Unfortunately, the addition of grease and steam changed
our ability to completely clean the piece;
we tested each area prior to cleaning to see if the painted dyes moved in that area,
and were able to effect quite a lot of removal of embedded dirt.

On the backside, we trimmed the straggling greasy stuffing prior to cleaning,
making it easier, but also removing grease that
when wetted might seep back into the front of the textile.

Finally, we performed minor thread repairs… the easiest and least important part
of the treatment plan as the stitching was in excellent condition.

 ©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use ONLY,
not for use on blogs without permission.

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Steelcase Redeaux


Throwback Thursday, my all time favorite showcover
on a vintage Steelcase Executive Chair.
Internals conserved properly.
Showcover total fun!

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To the Dogs!

They raise Labrador Retrievers;
they want nice furniture;
slips are the answer!

These slips are made of strong sanded cotton twill
with gingham accents peeking out,
and a touch of feminine hiding in the back!
All easily removed and sent out to be cleaned!

Don’t let the puppies get the bows!

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Repairing Frank Crowe Mason Monterey Dresser

The repairs on the final piece of the lovely bedroom set is completed.
MPF Conservation  does not repair/conserve historic pieces unless necessary.

In this case, the veneered top was shredded and lifting.

Mitchell gently removed the historic veneered top.
We did not touch the substrate, though it was quite wobbly.  Many of the pieces show the structural substrate through the original veneer, and we leave them as is!

Sorry that our image of the mahogany veneer unfinished did not come out.
Old wood base paint was mixed, and the first layer was placed on sealed veneer.

The color was not quite correct; Most of this furniture is not a one-coat process.
Mason Monterey is layered with several coats to achieve the proper finish.

A second coat to deepen the color, then a third coat to create the presentation we wanted.
Secret sauce.
We did not dust the Old Wood, as it would not have matched the historic finish as it is today unless we dusted the original historic Old Wood finish too.

Also, the other pieces being sold with this one were not restored.
They were wiped with a damp rag.

The slight wobble of the structure can be seen through the veneer,
just as it did in the historic veneered top.
Also, you can see how much this set changes color in varying lights.

Finished and ready to be sold with the accompanying pieces which were not repaired!
We are selling this large bedroom set in two lots: this is the second,
and is sold with the large mirror and second twin bed, above.

First Set below!

Frank Crowe was the most influential person
in dam building throughout the West:
Hoover Dam, Parker Dam 155 miles (249 km) downstream from Hoover; Copper Basin and
Gene Wash Dams on the Colorado Aqueduct system;
and Shasta Dam in Northern California.
We are offering many pieces from his ranch in Northern California.  Signed provenance statement included.
To know more, see details, and see other pieces,
go here.
  Contact us if you are a serious buyer.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Purple Paulin Chairs

Two Pierre Paulin Chairs needed full conservation: Innards were failing,
and the show cover was in poor condition.  The painted finish was not original (previously repainted).  The finish was badly gouged, and was missing altogether in places.

We conserved the innards, and restored the piece to its original beauty.
Our client wanted us to finish the wooden elements simply,
instead of restoring the painted finish we used our house traditional blonde shellac.

The lovely purple color looked beautiful in her new home!

 ©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
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Windsor Rocker


A sweet mid-nineteenth century faux bamboo Windsor sported
touches of gold paint in the crevices of the “bamboo”.
We do not know if it was original or added later.

The chair had no breaks, and he joints were quite stable.  The finish was tired and dull.  The seat collapsed and the needlepoint showcover needed cleaning and minor infill.
The chair was excavated, cleaning and saving the stuffings where applicable.

The finish was cleaned; we added a coating of protective traditional shellac.

The needlepoint may have been added later, as the edges were nicely woven.
Perhaps the original seat was all woven.

A pattern was taken prior to cleaning, to ensure that it be blocked back to the
original size and shape.  The edges were stabilized.
The showcover was cleaned, and the small amount of infill necessary was performed.

The Windsor Rocker just before it headed to its new home.
(Backdrop one of Kate’s home-made crocheted blankets.)

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Washington State Flag, Second Drafts, Silk


We left off with the finished drafts on paper, above.

New tracings from our master tracing are created each time so the tracing paper
doesn’t wear and the marks are fresh, not fat and sloppy.

Silk was primed using Gamblin’s PVA.

The historic flag was originally primed in its entirety.
We think it created problems.
Many artists and creators of historic pieces don’t think about what will happen
to their works in 100 years… they are in the moment plying their trade.

Mitchell and Dave Bernard (Gamblin) and I discussed this several times.
Each time, we decided that some of the aging issues including some of the cracking
with the original flag may have occurred due to the stiffness of
the primed silk folds pulling on the oil paint medallion of George Washington.

For that reason, we decided not to
prime the entire silk flag.

It means my painting must be spot on, in order that there is no oil paint hitting any portion of the silk that is not primed, because the oils in the paint will spread out
and leach into the silk (think of a grease spot.)  To assist me a bit in that area,
I am allowing about an eighth of priming beyond the edge of the medallion, just to be safe.
That will save me from a teeny slip of the brush.

Also, when tracing, it became clear that the blue tracing paper does not work as well as
the white chalk paper — the blue doesn’t hold, yet oddly, embeds into the silk.
It won’t brush off easily if it falls onto the silk field.
Doesn’t make sense, but that is my experience.


I also learned something from being a bit sloppy in my pinning,
and it is a test of my patience, which is one of my worst downfalls.
Pinning is important.  Lots of evenly spaced pins.
I didn’t use enough silk pins on the draft and one of the test sheets
puckered horrendously during the priming process!
Not the little bit you see here, but large stiff puckers sending out waves.
This will not come out!

PIN OFTEN, PIN TRUE!

I began painting George again, on the silk.
I am writing this in hindsight, but I was still a bit timid painting on silk.
I didn’t blend as I should have — I used the oils more like acrylics.

I painted thus far then stopped and let it dry.

It is an odd feeling that I must get used to,
painting on a surface that is fluid and can move ever so slightly.
It doesn’t have the stability of paper.


Note: if the image colors are darker or lighter, it is just the images taken under
different lighting at different times of the day.

I started again, this time ready to paint more in one sitting.
Hey, I was getting used to painting on a fluid moving material!
I moved into his uniform…

I had to post George with Halloween eyes.


Eyes.  Lips. 


And finally, in one sitting, I fleshed George out, so to speak.
Shaded his skin tones and hair…

I have a bit more to do, but am ready for the next step, the last set of drafts,
where I paint the drafts as I will paint the final flag, in 3-4 sittings:
1) White circle;
2) Lettering and background and George, basically;
3) Details.

In preparation for the next step, I mixed a dozen convenience colors from the palette
I developed for George, and these can be changed slightly as I am painting.
Paints are mixed then placed in tubes and sealed.
This one looks like chocolate fudge!

I also mixed up the mixture I am going to use to thin the paints,
so it is ready for my brush to be dipped into as I paint.

I am ready to paint the last set of drafts, next post!

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Historic Bedroom Set for Sale

Old Wood bedroom set (one half of the entire set) came from
the historic estate of Frank Crowe; this is an excellent chance for collectors
to own both good Mason Monterey, and also a piece of history.

All items in this half are in good original condition:
High Boy Dresser, Twin Bed, Side Table, and Small Mirror
NO finish restoration work ever performed on original finish.
One of the bed slates was missing;
MPFC recreated and finished one to match the original.
Signed provenance statement included.
For more information and more images, click here.

Frank Crowe was the most influential person
in dam building throughout the West.
He pioneered two practices that are crucial to the construction of large dams. The first was a pneumatic delivery system to transport concrete and
the second was a system of overhead cables to allow the pneumatic concrete to be pumped at any point on the construction site. With this technique, Crowe built some of the largest dams in the American west, including Hoover Dam, Parker Dam 155 miles (249 km) downstream from Hoover; Copper Basin and Gene Wash Dams on the Colorado Aqueduct system; and Shasta Dam in Northern California.

He retired in 1944 to his 20,000-acre cattle ranch near Redding, California.
The bedroom set was part of this estate, some of which was lost in a fire.
We are offering one-half of the set below.
It has lived with the family intact since the fire.
Signed provenance statement included.
To know more, see details, and see other pieces, go here.
Contact us if you are a serious buyer.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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American Mahogany Seignouret Chair


The Seignouret chair appears to be an actual Empire striped mahogany “gondola” chair made by Francois Seignouret in Louisiana circa 1830-1850, though it could also be a later version of the signature chair (design attributed to Seignouret) created by Prudent Mallard, who followed Seignouret and opened a studio nearby.

The chair had no breaks, and he joints were quite stable.  The finish was tired and dull.  The seat collapsed and the needlepoint showcover needed cleaning and minor infill..


The chair was excavated, cleaning and saving the stuffings where applicable.
The finish was cleaned then polished. using traditional methods.


The needlepoint was the second showcover, and was quite filthy around the perimeter.
A pattern taken prior to cleaning, to ensure that it be blocked back to the original size and shape.  The edges were stabilized.  The showcover was cleaned, and the small amount of infill necessary was performed.


After cleaning and reupholstering, a minor amount of stain was visable.


The Seignouret chair installed at home.

 ©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use,
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Throwback Thursday: Backgammon


A military couple had traveled all around the world with this backgammon set.
When they retired they finally wanted the worn board restored.


Simple in some ways, it had to be accurate and smooth.
We excavated the old, conserved the old finish (which had layers of shellac applied — possibly marine varnish), and included a rarely used checkerboard.


Once the base was complete, Mitchell created the new gaming table top.


The set is ready for another 30 years of use!

Thursday Throwback may be images that I took long ago and never used,
before we had the blog… or items that technically we were not documenting.
It took me awhile to get used to a digital camera and so excuse the bad photos!

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Chinese Statue Conservation Treatment


Two polychrome statues, one whose hand was previously repaired incorrectly.
Both were quite dirty.
Our job was to remove the poor repair, repair it correctly,
and clean and stabilize the finish on both statues.   The treatment was a mixture of conservation techniques and restoration techniques.


With the warring club removed, it is easy to see
the fingers were glued into place backwards and upside down.


Mitchell built a box to allow for proper safe clamping, and we used
florists foam to mold a bed to protect the statue during treatment

A heated scalpel cut through the prior glue, separating the incorrectly glued fingers.
That same technique lifted bits of glue inside the palm.

The fingers lost part of their original materials during the incorrent reparation;
we added wood to carve for the proper fit.
This process took two separate glue and cure phases.

The wood was carefully carved after the glue set.

Both statues were dirty and had never been professionally cleaned.
Kate removed layers of embedded grease and grime from
a century of use prior to painting the infill on the new parts.

We are often asked what we use to clean various items.
The reason we do not state this publicly is that someone might use what
we used successfully on the wrong object without testing
the technique or formula and harm their object.

Finally, the newly carved infill was painted using Gamblin oil paints,
No other infill was performed.


Before and after treatment.

©MPF Conservation
May be printed for your own use ONLY, not for use on blogs without permission.

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Sketching to Communicate with Clients

Does anyone create lovely sketches for their clients anymore?
We often create amazing decorative pillows to accompany a conserved item.

Kate created design sketches from images and samples,
so that we could better talk with our client about ideas for her sofa pillows.
These are fancy pillows for a pair of loveseats, and the colors are
lovely rusty jewel tones with touches of green and amethyst.
We like the idea of cream silks to set off the deep jewel tones.


The page, altogether, ideas wandering on their own.


More design sketches for our client, the owner of the Louis XVI Settee.
Silk bolsters for the arms, with flirty tassel-dangly-bobs.
French knotted India silk creating scrunchy pillows for the back.


Kate also caught the LouisXVI in another sketch…
Mitchell laying down on the job!

 ©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use ONLY,
not for use on blogs without permission.

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Throwback Thursday: Child’s Rocker

This week may be children’s week, as I am posting a throwback to a child’s rocker as well.

The mother grew up with this rocker, but had made a new needlepoint for the seat.
She wanted the old needlepoint cleaned.
She did not want it repaired in any way, just cleaned so that it could be
put under glass as her grandmother had made it for her…
Wel worn = well-loved.  A new family tradition?

Among her provenance were ads from the Spokane Furniture Company where the chair was purchased, and the labels we found under the upholstery.

The chair ready for delivery and
another century of child use!

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May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Heirloom Child’s Chair

The chair came to us through the heiress (hereafter called LB)
to the Frank Crowe Mason Monterey Collection.
The sweet chair was made by her grandfather…
Someone had recovered it, but thankfully the original stuffings were intact!
She wanted it conserved, arms and back repaired, then covered in a showcover reminiscent of Mason Monterey furniture.  It would be making a trek to its
new home in Australia and into the hands of her granddaughter.

The chair is excavated, above.


In the process we found the original fabric, which our client remembers, above.
The fabric from the backside (where we often find good original fabric)
will become a lumbar pillow in memory of the chair’s original showcover.

Frame damage was repaired prior to conserving and rebuilding
of the seat and back for reupholstery.  We removed the two struts which were no longer viable.  They had twisted, causing damage to the seat apron rails.
The hardwood frame was peppered with tack holes, which were repaired by
filling with picks and hide glue.  Other areas of the frame were repaired with hide glue.

Both arms were split with loss, so new pieces were created, secured, and shaped.

Finish was cleaned, infill color and traditional shellac was used
to match the new repaired arms, and the entire frame had
an encaustic wax treatment to brighten and unify the original finish.
(Sadly, my very bad Apple computer, a lemon, lost images.)

Buildup and Upholstery

Buildup commenced, paying attention to how the old materials sat on the frame,
cleaning and reusing original materials and adding new to augment the old.
New webbing, new ties on the original springs, and a mix of original and new stuffings.
The mouse-eaten hole was filled in the original back.
We detailed the piece as it would have been originally with a slightly thicker
(the material was quite thick) welt cord band separating the seat from the apron.

Touches… handmade buttons for the inside back!

And a pocket to secret away pictures of family
and the report on the piece, with other provenance!

The chair ready for delivery and
another century of child use!

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Textile Conservation: Victorian Beaded Angel Needlepoint


One of the sweetest pieces we ever treated.

A widow had several items conserved for the children in the family.
This lovely beaded needlepoint had many condition issues: dozens of
moth-eaten areas, ripped or broken canvas, a good deal of lost bead work,
and also an unusual condition Kate had not seen before.
Some of the faceted metal beads had “melted” from heat exposure or eroded from a caustic situation, shown best in the last two images above.  These beads not only eroded, but many had fused together and into the warp and weft of the needlepoint canvas.

The piece was surprisingly clean, however, and only needed spot cleaning:
in this case Kate treated (repaired) the piece before cleaning,
as there was too much to lose during a cleaning process.


A search did not yield matching beads for the metallic beads nor the
milky-pink beads of the skin, but we were successful with many other beads.

Kate is taking you through one of the most dramatic repairs, where the metallic beads “burned” a hole into the mesh, showing remaining “melted” beads.


The rips and missing mesh from the disintegrated beads.
It is almost as if a caustic substance was released from the beads and burned the mesh.  This is where institutional conservators have a bit more leeway and
funding to test and discover chemical interactions; private clients are more
interested in a proper restorative experience than research.


The first step was to gently hold the mesh into place during reweaving of the grid.


Counting the grid, the mesh is rewoven all over the back before Kate begins on the front.


Having repaired the mesh, Kate could now gently remove, sort and salvage,
then clean the metallic beads for reuse where possible. Our client left it to Kate’s discretion to reuse the beads or substitute beads, depending upon their condition.

Beaded needlework is a slow process and requires design skills when parts are missing.
A tiny needle picks up one bead at a time and weaves them in a tent stitch pattern.
This is important as this is the original design of the piece:
the beads once lined up like needlepoint stitches.
Over the years some have twisted, but this was not the way they were originally stitched.

The next problem was the moth eaten field.
Kate was able to steal a few bits of original yarn less than one inch long, and with a tiny crochet hook (her grandmother’s) was able to weave these tiny bits into larger holes.

But what to do with the many single missing stitches?
Kate proposed to dot the field with a clear bead, almost like stars around the angel.


The piece is completed, and spot cleaned.
The back tells the story of the many repairs.


Adding beads in the areas where a small moth hole was a good idea;
they appear like tiny stars in the sky. and clearly differentiates
the original from the conservation treatment.
Our client had the piece properly framed for a lovely family heirloom.

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Repairing Trigger

Whether you are a fan or not, a unique look at repairing Trigger.

Part 1

Part 2

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Washington State Flag, First Drafts, Paper

Beginning with the test sheets,
I created test paintings of oil on paper.
The paper was primed with shellac to prevent oil seepage.

New tracings from our master tracing are created each time so the marks are fresh.


My first draft was a portrait of George on plain shellacked paper.

The lovely background is not noticed much in our original because the original bright green silk has faded to the colors of the background.
The background was created so that it appears a light is coming from behind George.

The draft on shellacked paper helped to fine tune the paint formulas.


Okay, I had a bit of fun at the end of the day giving him cat’s whiskers!


The original paint mixes when painted in the portrait draft were changed slightly.


Pasty face also taught me not to let the paint dry, but to mix shadings in the moment…
I painted the draft slowly, using a 50/50 galkyd/linseed mix to thin when needed.

The next four images were done in one day, so the shadings were created properly.


Building up the face.


The hair and lacy shirt…


Adding the green that matched the silk…

A few final tweaks, and the first draft was completed, shown here against the original.

A second test was on green painted paper to work the colors again, over green.

Painting over a base of green changes methods just a bit;
the green tint bleeds through the paint.  Green George gave us laughs as his eyes followed us everywhere; I was a bit sorry to have to finish him!

Working green George I became much more comfortable with the paint colors
and the techniques to create his likeness.  His face needs to be a bit thinner and
his hair is a bit wildly curly still.  Painting George has prompted me to review other
images of Washington, because really, while I am creating a likeness of the flag,
I am not a forger and have come to realize the painting will have my hand and strokes
no matter how I attempt to reproduce it.  What I want is his eyes to look at you in the manner of the flag and his smile (which has degraded) to be accurate to his personality.

We tried to find the image the original makers used as a model but no luck so far…
We thought that they may have copied a famous painting.
Our research is leading us to believe the historic flag’s image was
an amalgamation of two or three images we’ve found.
If anyone has any further history we’ll be happy to share that in this post..

This has been an honor and adventure so far;
really nothing I’ve done to date has been quite like it.

I am not quite finished with this test
(hair, costume) but not sure that I will finish him; I’ve learned a good bit from
the paper tests and am now ready for the silk, next post!

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

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Frances Normandin’s Bell Hanger

Frances Normandin, great-grandmother to our clients, designed and created the needlework bell hanger (ca 1930-1940) as a gift for her 15-year-old son,  Fred Louis Normandin, Jr., or “Bub.”  Fred was named after his father, the first grocer in the
Mount Tabor area.  (Conserved, left.)

Frances was born in 1897 and grew up in Portland, attending St. Mary’s Academy, where her artistic talent began to show itself.  She was a gifted painter, worked in the mediums of beadwork, woodcarving, and various kinds of needlework.  She lived to be 97 and was still making beadwork bell ornaments right up until the end, even though she was legally blind.  (We have another of her pieces, a crewel work of their farm in Forest Grove, conserved as well, see bottom.)

When the bell hanger came to us
it was in excellent condition:
* It had yarns missing in both the petit point  and needlepoint areas, both decorative and field (below).
* A ball nut was missing from the pull.
* The entire needlework needed to be cleaned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The hanger and pull were disassembled from the needlework, and the screw piece and sample ball were sent to an excellent blacksmith for replication, Stephen Gossett.  When disassembled, we had our first  look at the original color of the field: teal green!

We began by a thorough vacuuming, both top and bottom side,
to remove deeply embedded debris and fine spider-webbing, above.
During this time were able to again inspect the piece.

Appleton Bros 100% wool yarns were bought to match the existing (faded) colors of the yarn.  I believe the piece was quite colorful with the palette Frances choose, and I am sorry that my efforts to photograph the little bit I saw through an opening between the backing and the needlework did not do it justice.  Above are the best images I captured: the biscuit colored yarn began as a rust or orange yarn, left, and right, peering into the opening, seeing the bright greens and teal and gold of the back of the needlework.

It is always difficult matching yarns; you are matching faded yarns not dyed yarns, and so, what appears a gray field was a dark teal green, and the “gray” is actually faded.  I own every gray wool crewel yarn and still could not quite match it.  In some ways this is preferable; you can see the infill from the original work.

Without taking the back lining off the piece, I could not easily repair the small amount
of missing petit point, however, I was able to infill most of the needlepoint because the linen canvas was not brittle, so there was no fear of breaking canvas threads while coming in from the side to repair the tent stitches.  Above, a thorough example of a basic repair: coming in from the back (or the side) and pulling through each stitch, including edges, until all stitches were infilled.  At the end I pulled through and clipped close,
and very little movement pulled the tip through so it is hidden.

Samples of infill above.  The majority of the needlework is the tent stitch,
and while I could not get a good look at the back of the piece, I assume it was either a diagonal tent or basketweave tent, as there is little distortion.

However, once I was creating infill and removing degraded (moth-eaten or worn) stitches, I also could see that Frances laid yarn threads under many of her tent stitches,
creating the Bayeux stitch (above).  This means the textile is both petit point,
needle work and laid work.  I was able, in most cases, to keep her original underlayer.
In a few instances where i was sure they existed but were now gone, I dared not lay
in the long stitching under the tent stitch for fear of pulling the adjacent yarns,
and so these areas are a bit meager compared to her original work.

When it was time to reassemble the hanging metal and pull, it was difficult, so we are warning our client not to do this unless absolutely necessary.  The screw hung up in the hem, and Mitchell used his long upholstery needle to open the pathway.

Conserved bell hanger, above.

To follow Frances Normandin’s beautiful crewelwork through conservation, start here.

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Planter’s Chair: 8 Showcover

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.
We left off in the last posting with upholstery buildup
of the inside back, inside arm,  and seat.


Muslin was secured and the inside back and arms
readied for the decorative showcover.

The outside back and outside arms, as well as the
bottom band (apron) will be completed after the showcover and buttoning
is completed on the inside back and arms.

Other than the obvious — that is, our client liked the fabric
and the colors went well in her historic home —
the showcover was chosen because Mitchell knew the velvet
was reminiscent of velvets in the 19th Century,
and so was a good choice for historic reasons.
The lovely fabric is a rayon, cotton and silk pile
on a tightly woven cotton base with a dense thread count.
The gold flecks cause a shimmering effect as you move around the chair.

Trims were also period appropriate embellishments,
especially in their modest appearance with a touch of gold
to play against the gold flecks in the velvet.

When the fabric was delivered, it was immediately unrolled,
a yardage verification was performed, and the entire roll checked for flaws.
Flaws are a common occurrence, and additional yardage must be requested
from the company and/or the fabric returned for replacement.

Patterns were created, which is a lesson onto itself.

Fabric was cut.

Buttons were made (and BTW we usually make extras for our clients.)
Cut into squares, the hand-operated machine
cuts the circles for the button, then molds it onto the metal forms.
These machines are indispensable to a serious upholstery studio.
(Note these images are from another project.)

The inside back muslin was covered with
a thin layer of felted organic 100% staple cotton.
(We buy organic whenever we can.)
The batting acts as a soft buffer between the muslin and showcover,
protecting the showcover from premature wear.
The batting also acts as a dust barrier (filter) and
softens the surfaces creating a sumptuous look and feel.

Buttons were placed as shown above on (note these images are from another project.)
A very long button needle is used to place the location of the button through many layers; the button threads are in the needle in all of the images above.
Once the needle is placed it is slowly pulled through and tied (images 5 & 6).
Cotton is used to keep the button from ripping through the foundational cloth.
Once the button is set at the right length or tension (and this is not easy to do),
the folds are placed, as they rarely “fall”into a pleasing folding pattern.

Buttons were installed;
now the entire chair can be closed up.

Moving to the arms:  Mitchell applied stitching and lashing methods to the intersecting
points between the inside back and inside arms (image 1-4, above).  it was necessary to
cinch the back’s termination points tightly to the internal stuffings and steel frame
in order to prevent slipping and easing of the area where the inside arm begins.

The inside arm was hand-stitched which also allowed the seat-to-arm gully to define.  Mitchell secured and buttoned the inside arm show cover.  Note how nicely the
arm-top squares creating a comfortable support for the forearms?

Pausing to show the entire chair at this stopping point.
Note the extra fabric pulled through the seats.


Moving to the seat, Mitchell places a light layer of organic 100% staple cotton batting
placed over the muslin prior to the showcover, for the same reasons as the
cotton batting on the inside back: protection from premature wear,
a dust barrier (filter) and softening the seat ever so slightly.

Mitchell’s notes: At first glance a pattern repeat on a design like this seems
inconsequential.  It is not!  This showcover had a repeat which was visible and
demanded attention to centering, balancing and matching the motif as it related
to the contours and spatial aspects of the chair.  I notice pattern mismatches and
sloppy placement, and believe even laypersons (clients) will notice over time.

The bottom band was created.  The modest diameter
decorative rope braid was hand-stitched below the front edging
prior to padding and final upholstering of the showcover.

Stitchings and stuffings and lashings and soft cotton toppers,
all for the front decorative banding!  It is surprising to non-upholsterers what
measures are taken to ensure long-terms viability of a soft-structure object with
little rigid structure within… all hidden, all an important part of our upholstery heritage.


.

Decorative front banding was
tacked using #2 blue-tacks,
ready to be blind-stitched.

Yes, Mitchell spits tacks;
true upholsterers do!


The decorative rope braid was pinned
and secured with a locking back stitch.

The chair was turned upside down.
A layer of organic 100% staple cotton batting was followed with 400 ct percale muslin, stretched, pinned, and blind-stitched to the foundational cloth.


A final pattern of the outside back was created by Mitchell;
material was cut and machine stitched readied for application.

Another layer of organic 100% staple cotton batting
was placed over the percale, pinned to the underside
of the decorative rope braid, and blind-stitched or tacked.


Decorative gimp braid was carefully secured
using a good grade white tacking glue.


Mitchell included a secret pocket beneath conserved pieces when possible.
Provenance, a DVD or thumb drive, family photos with
the piece can be stashed in a waterproof container.


Remember the steel hoop listed to one side from a regular sitter favoring a position? Notice how the inside back asymmetrical contour lists above?
This is due to the steel hoop listing.
It also effects how the button’s elevations are seen in certain photos,
though they are level — it is an optical illusion due to the tilted frame.
In person the chair rarely reveals the listing but the still shots reveal it!


The Planter’s Chair completed in our studio!

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An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

If you would be interested in notification of online classes
coming next year, comment and we will save your email address.
It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Planter’s Chair: 7, Buildup, Tufted Back and Seat

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.
We left off in the last posting with inside back excavation.


The inside back completely excavated.
Note (even if you can’t see it) the frame’s steel hoop tilts to one side,
a product of repeated sideways sitting by an inhabitant.
As we move on, it will sometimes appear as if our upholstering
was “off” when it was actually the tilt of the back’s steel hoop.


14 oz jute hessian was chosen as a replacement for the

original inside back and arm foundational membrane.

The symmetry of the hessian grain positions relative to the frame positioning
and lack of symmetry was calculated and transferred by graphite and chalk
to the hessian in order to insure the best positioning of the woven medium.
The hessian was stretched and pinned then lashed with
heavy 12-ply linen twine in a locking blanket stitch.


Mitchell placed double cross stitches along strategic
points of the hoop and vertical supports to
ensure the hessian did not move over time.

The seat and back now will be built together.

On the seat, arms and back, the buildup occurred in
reverse order of excavation; what came off last went on first.

Second stuffings (horsehair) was secured to
the conserved pod and additional hair added over the lashings
to replace original hairs broken over many years of use.
A new cotton topper was placed upon the hair.
A 7 oz cotton/hemp muslin was stitched to the pod,
making the surface ready for the new showcover.


Historic hair filled cummerbund (lumbar filler)

was lashed into position using linen twine and
covered with 9 oz open weave hessian.


Notice how the lumbar filler wraps around the inside arms,

creating a semi-firm seal between the seat contours
and the inside back and arm base.

The serpentine hair-filled crest and arm “collar” was reinstalled,
loosely stitched with linen twine awaiting amendment.
It was amended just below using polished coir
in order to add resilience to the historic roll.
Even in well-kept upholstery, some losses occur to fibers:
they break, powder, and sift through their encasements.

The serpentine crest and arm roll
were fully lashed using linen twine.

Note the definition of the contours and sloping lines,
running down to the hair pod.

The original inside back second stuffings
(cleaned and teased), was set into the conserved form.
Mitchell left the historic flocked wadding on the hair surface
so the evidence of period materials would be available for future generations.

The second stuffings were lashed into place using linen twine.
Notice the attention paid to using the historic lashing patterns,
easily seen on the outside back of the foundational hessian.

Tufting began using a 5 oz finely woven hemp hessian.
The patterns taken earlier were applied and adjusted to the conserved form.
Mitchell did not want to return the chair’s back in the form
in which our client was familiar, but rather the historic form.
(BTW our client was appraised and excited about these prospects,
but it is always advised to discuss before changing the form of a familiar chair!)

Above, the beginning stages of tufting
showing the elevations and folds defined,
but before Mitchell buttoned the tufts.

Tufts were held in place with 5 ply linen twine knotted
to the back foundational membrane.
In the first image, the muslin was pulled over the crest
and a running stitch installed to secure.
In the second image, note the anchor point for buttoning
was knotted to the foundational membrane.

The inside back muslin was also secured around each arm,
and the buttons continue onto the inside arms.
The gully continued to be defined as a decorative element.

Mitchell attached the inside arm muslin to the form
defining the final arm top and final button placement.
The outside back and outside arms will be completed
after the showcover and buttoning is complete on the inside back and arms.

With that, we move to the the showcover, next post!

An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

If you would be interested in notification of online classes coming next year, comment and we will save your email address.  It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

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May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Planter’s Chair: 6, Excavation, Back

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.

We left off in the last posting with the Buildup of the Seat.

With the seat buildup completed, Mitchell removed the protective covering
from the inside back (Image #1, discussed why here).

He excavated the original inside back cotton topper (See excavation back
the image with the seat was blurred so showed the image
without the seat built-up) and horsehair, above.
A thin batting of cotton flocking lint, original to the piece, was exposed;
a good deal of the color is the actual color of this flocking, though it was also dirty.
.

Both were cleaned and teased as necessary, and laid face down.

The crest (fiber filled) edgeroll and adjacent collar was lashed
to and around the perimeter of the crest to arm hoop,
over the heavy hessian foundational membrane.
After inspection, notes and patterns were created,
then the edgeroll was carefully removed.

The serpentine hair-filled crest and arm “collar” were carefully lifted
from the steel hoop frame after anchoring stitches were cut.
Mitchel retained the stitches within the hessian so he could
refer to them to replicate the original stitch patterning as necessary.


The serpentine hair-filled crest and arm “collar” was laid atop

the original inside back in the order removed.

The “cumberbund” — the lumbar filled  support — was carefully
removed, patterned, cleaned and readied for reapplication.
It was also placed atop the other inside back pieces in the order removed.

The hoop frame exposed, with the
original hessian foundational membrane, above.

Finally the original hessian foundational membrane was removed, and the steel hoop (frame) was fully exposed. Notice the nice contour to the seat pod at the rear.  From an upholstering engineering perspective, the roll around the seat rear and inside arms play an important function relative to a semi-firm barrier between the inside arm and inside back, keeping a tight fit between those elements.  The roll also acts semi-independently from the central portion of the pod, where the primary center of gravity exists, allowing the sitter to drop into the springs without collapsing the seal between the lumbar area of the inside back and the seat.  It is also easy to see the geometric flavor of the Art Nouveau style, though the chair precedes the production of that style by several decades.

The back is fully excavated, and we move to the
inside back buildup and conservation, next post!

An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

If you would be interested in notification of online classes coming next year, comment and we will save your email address.  It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

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May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Planter’s Chair: 5, Buildup, Seat

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.
We left off in the last posting with frame and finish conservation.

Mitchell began with the chair turned over.

Upholstery conservation on the conserved frame begins underneath.
Mitchell intends to web the frame in the original basket-weave pattern,
same placement, using similar webbing to the original.

Mitchell’s note:  If you remember the oddly placed webbing (last image above),
the more I considered it, the more I realized this was likely NOT the original webbing.  Tack hole patterns suggest a tightly woven webbing of greater width, also European.
In this, the oldest generation found, note it is likely numerous courses are missing.
The webbing was a high quality herringbone jute, modest in width, metric, of European origin.  The upholsterer chose to overlap the edges of the spring instead of supporting
the spring at center (the spring could fall through, see third image).  It may have been rewebbed from underneath, as the springs were also not lashed to the webbing.

Mitchell placed his webbing in a tightly placed basket-weave with very little space
between courses of webbing, in keeping with the French style of upholstering.
We chose to rewebb and place the webbing in what appears to be the historic position.  The historic position/patterning corroborates our supposition that the chair
was made in France or was created in the French style.

We keep samples of original show covers, burlaps, muslins, and webbings for our clients.

Webbing completed; Chair turned right-side up!

Cleaned springs were placed, still tied, into position.
Mitchell realized that to preserve the decorative arms a second, additional prosthetic
block was needed underneath the block placed in earlier (see previous post).
A double blocking system was the totality of the addition on both sides.

Mitchell noted the direction of the springs during excavation,
and places them properly into position.

Tying shown at the start.  We show these ties and knots in
other reports online, and will be teaching them
in online classes in the near future.

The four-way double tie completed.

Mitchell’s note: The wear-points found on the old iron springs indicated the piece was
originally a four-way tie.  Clearly the maker crafted it with the intent of the
user dropping deeply into the seat with a low center of gravity, ergo, the four-way tie.
So much can be learned by paying close attention to details during excavation!

The springs were covered with a tight jute hessian,
creating the Spring Deck.

The hessian was tied to the springs in a four-point pattern.
Mitchell sees an unintended homage to the Holbein stitch and wonders about the connection.  The Holbein is shown in the buildup, and will be taught in our online classes.

The historic seat deck pod was cleaned, hand-blocked,
and selectively teased and made ready for installation.

Additional coir was secured to the conserved pod,
and the pod was placed onto the Spring Deck.

A beautiful polished hemp open weave burlap
covered the original hessian, and was tacked into place.
Both the historical pod and the new topper were used.

The fiber pod was marked, readied for lashing into place using 12 ply waxed linen twine.
Three rows of lashing established a firm front edge and edgeroll,
while two courses of twine transited the seat contour keeping stuffings in place,
establishing a center of gravity for a comfortable sit.
The third front row of stitching performs double duty in this instance.

From Mitchell: It never ceases to amaze me, even after decades of performing work
on fiber pods, their ingenious design!  While it is easy to comprehend how fiber
stuffed into a casing performs relative to compression and return during a sit or recline,
it is the lashing twines (simple thins strand of tightly twisted fiber) which become
the building blocks for the fiber pod’s ultimate structure and longevity.
These strings strategically placed, patterned and knotted, act like sub-floors and
stud walls in a building. They make  for a cohesive structure which can flex yet remain
firm and shapely, and allows the fiber pod to last decades under consistent use.

The Seat Deck is conserved
(in this image the inside back
is revealed completely excavated).
We move to the inside back excavation next post!

If you would be interested in notification of online classes coming next year, comment and we will save your email address.  It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Del Rey Dining Set: 1, Cleaning

Note:  Some of the changes in color are due to
using two cameras and different lighting!

I bought a lovely Del Rey set owned by one family, and am getting it ready to sell it.
(I forgot to photograph the dang set before I started!)
Unlike most Monterey styles, this Del Rey set would fit even in an apartment, a kitchen,
or guest house, it is so compact.  It is adorable — and I rarely use that word!

It needed little structural work — tightening screws in the back,
and the knobs are all loose from stripped screws.
I imagine the owners did a bit of work on it (yes sadly.)

The paint finish is in good-to damaged original condition, with areas
where scratches are leaving white paint showing through.
The white paint is highly toxic lead white, an undercoat.
I will touch-up and seal the lead paint to protect users from the lead
(most antique painted finished have unfortunate chemicals),
which will also protect the finish from further degradation.

ALL our work aligns with conservation principles, and to that end, like techniques
and products — to match the historic — and/or reversible products are used.
That said, this is a restoration project using conservation principles.

BUT FIRST, I am going to gross you out.
Be prepared.  This is one of those posts that describes what you’ve brought home,
and what you don’t see.  Grease.  Dirt.  Sugars.
I call this mixture grime for short;
this is not a museum project so need for a chemical analysis!
I need to clean it in order to do the restoration work to it.

So besides being grossed out by this dirt (and I imagine some of you are sitting on
a chair like this right now) there is another problem.  Grime deteriorates the original
paint.  Notice the different color after the removal of the grime in the image above?

Yes, paint came off as well, but not due
to us rubbing or using a caustic cleanser.
The grease was already chemically joining
or re-polymerizing with the oil paint and undermining the adhesion to the wood, above.  In a stunning example of this, right, you can see the migration of paint caused by grease left in place on the top of the chairs.
The lacy effect is paint moved by grease!

This is why it is important to clean your chairs gently (and appropriately)
when you see grime building.  It is not just a matter of being tidy;
the grime will undermine and deteriorate your finishes!

Our knowledge of this style of furniture helps me see what I see,
helps me determine what might be going on without elaborate testing.
Del Rey pieces often have an air-brushed “antiqued” topcoat over
the painted finish; but what I am seeing here is not that, but grime.
One way you can tell is the color of the grime.
Slick shiny grey is grime; a satin finished toasty brown is paint.
I need to get rid of as much of the greasy grime as possible without using a
caustic cleanser which will strip the original paint.  Original paint = value and history.
I need to get rid of the bulk of it though, so that my seal coat
and wax will adhere, and preserve the finish.

I used a 10% solution of unscented organic dishwashing liquid and soft sponge for one pass to loosen and cut through the grease, then distilled water and a clean rag for gentle  scrubbing to remove grime in the crevices of the distressed-by-design finish.
Cotton swabs catch the grime in the crevices and large scratches.
I wear gloves because I am putting my hands in water with lead paint;
especially as I work with this for a living I need to be careful of lead buildup.

I can feel a slick sliding of greasy grime as I clean with cotton swaps and soft rag.
I pay extra attention to the areas where liquid may have spilled, or dirty hands touch — the paint along the top of the chairs, the knobs — people don’t think to clean these parts!

The top of the table and work surface of the hutch are damaged by cleaning,
so I need to be careful so the the paint does not further disintegrate.
Horizontal surfaces more than vertical surfaces.

BTW, I can only clean 2-3 chairs a day, by far the filthiest pieces of furniture!
People often don’t notice their furniture is filthy when they have an “antiqued” topcoat!

Lovely cleaned set ready for the infill, top coat, and wax.

Stay Tuned.  Go to infill paint by clicking here!

©MPF Conservation
You may republish on a blog if you link back to this post.

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Planter’s Chair: 4, Reparation and Finish Work

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.
We left off in the last posting with the excavation of the seat.

The frame’s joinery had issues in two places and one was a surprise.

We gently disassembled the legs and the front apron, in order to clean the
old hide glue from the mortice and tenon, readying it for reparation.

Tack holes on all possible parts of the frame are conserved using
picks and warm hide glue.  It looks like it takes much more time that other
viable solutions but it doesn’t; one gets into the rhythm and
the picks drop easily into the abandoned tack holes filled with hide glue.

We do not recommend the application of epoxies, putties and/or slurries of glues
(PVA or hide) made of wood flour and shavings for surface leveling,
as it will not impart structural integrity.  These will not hold tacks.
Ultimately they are not reversible as they are nearly impossible to remove
from historic wood surfaces and substrates.  Many epoxy-based glues
and putties will thwart future conservation efforts into perpetuity.

Modestly bruised or worn tenons, where gaps could effect efficacy of the reglued joints, were laminated with thin =veneers made from similar wood species prior to regluing of joint.  Then warm hide glue is applied to cleaned conserved parts, and clamped to cure.

Tack holes in the carved decorative arms were also conserved.
We puzzled over the relief carved design facing the inside part of the arm,
and the flatter plain surface facing the outside arm of the chair.
At first the visual effect seemed confusing (makers have been known to make mistakes) but as we ventured further into the project we realized it was not a mistake.

One bug surprise was the decorative arm to metal frame connection.
The frame connection fragmented into multiple disintegrating bits.
(This is also to remind you that sometimes surprises happen after assessment, during conservation processes.  It is advised to work with your clients about payment,
keeping clients informed as adjustments in costs are resolved.)

The disintegrated parts or blown out broken parts were carefully removed
and a clean surface to attach a connecting piece of hard wood was created,
then the connection was fashioned and the piece assembled.
A small bit of carved decorative wood was loose and glued with warm hide glue.
All the glue used in the reconstruction was warm hide glue, and clamped to cure.
Hide glue is strong and reversible when properly applied and
of good quality without bulking agents or chemical additives!
We used to make all our hide glues, but now we use Old Brown Glue.

The rest of the chair frame holes were conserved. 
Small cracks and chips found in the frame were also repaired
with warm hide glue, and clamped to cure.


Picks are leveled using a chisel.

The repaired persimmon-wood carved arm front tenons were brushed with warm hide glue and returned to original positions in the cleaned, prepped seat side rail mortice.
Perfect fit!
Historic hoop was reconnected using historic slot headed screws,
securing screw and hoop to the backside of the decorative arm front.
Finally, the assembled and glued chair was leveled and clamped to cure for 48 hours.

Mitchell retrofit the inside arm frame with a tacking block; previously upholsterers
toe-nailed into the frame inappropriately, which caused most of the damage.
This type of retrofit is a preservation measure.
In this case, it creates a visual design element, allowing for a structural gully
around the decorative arm foundation resulting in recessed contours around the arm which are embellished with the decorative show cover and woven braids.

The historic iron springs were in good condition;
after a thorough inspection Mitchell cleaned them of rust and
occlusions using
Gamblin’s Gamsol (Odorless Mineral Spirits).


This decorative relief carved scroll was missing
on the left-facing leg and loose on this leg.

The decorative scroll was carved from walnut,
joined to the leg proper then glued and clamped to cure. 
The chair was ready for finish conservation.

Stain infill was determined.

The “stain” was created by dissolving powdered pigment in isopropyl alcohol.
Mitchell applied our stain to cure until completely dry.
After, a topcoat of blonde shellac was applied to fix the infill color in place.

We used an encaustic wax finish on the entire frame’s finish in
multiple applications and viscosities until burnish-able.
MPFC created this wax by infusing bee and carnauba wax with finely powdered pigment with the addition of “drying” oils to polymerize the mixture and act as a fixative.


Jumping ahead, this is the appearance of a  conserved original finish:
warm, a slight sheen, and if you looked closely, evidence of the wear of time.

The frame is conserved and restored as is appropriate;
onward to upholstery, next post!

If you would be interested in notification
of online video classes coming next year,
comment and we will save your email address.

It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Victorian Firescreen Textile Treatment

This Victorian firescreen, circa 1890-1910, is a family heirloom,
created from petitpoint, needlepoint, and cross-stitching, quite lovely when new.
Originally it might have attached to a wooden or metal stand,
standing in front of a fireplace to shield the family from too much direct heat.

It came to us after years of hanging uncovered in rooms with wood smoke,
oil smoke, and a cigarette smoker, all of which contributed to the the overall feeling of grime and brittle texture of the textile’s linen grid, or warp and weft.
The family wanted it cleaned and infilled with new yarns, readying it for life under glass.

Before proceeding, we test cleaned the lower right-hand corner, in an area which was likely to be removed due to excessive holes in the tapestry which were the most expensive areas to be treated, and the most unremarkable area on the textile.

The test went well, the dyes stayed in place with minor migration,
and as you can see, tar released onto the paper towels.  It was safe to proceed, above.

We vacuumed the piece gently with textile attachments to remove surface debris,
then cleaned the entire textile with several rounds of short soaking
in a mild surfactant solution, and removed layers of grease and grime,
rendering the textile to a brighter color than it was before cleaning.

At this point, as per our agreement with our client, we reassessed the piece, and offered our final estimate with various approaches.  Our client decided to eventually remove or hide the bottom band and so did not conserve or restore that area.

The textile was created with wool and silk yarns on a linen grid.
After finding suitable matches for the yarns/threads, Kate began stabilizing the woolen edges, which were the sturdiest part of the tapestry, above.

However, as she moved into the silk thread areas she discovered a surprise:
the silk threads were sheered yet had not dropped out of the grid during cleaning, as has happened on other projects!  Now if any adjacent areas were infilled,
the other stitches literally dropped, above, when touched.
What might have been a simpler infill of stitches here and there
and a small area on a sleeve, became large swaths of stitching infill!

There were no huge areas where the grid, or linen warp and weft,
needed to be completely rewoven, which is good considering the fragility of the tapestry.
Instead there were 21 areas of 2-4 places of broken warp/weft, and two where there were holes created by 4-6 broken linen threads.  The adjacent grid could not take reweaving easily, and so the areas were cleverly infilled with the needlepoint.

Also, the grid was too fragile for cross-stitching, which meant double the number
of times a needle would pass in each hole, threatening to pop more linen threads, and so Kate chose to infill using a needlepoint stitch gently pulled, not tightly pulled.

In each area, cut silk threads were gently lifted using a dull-tipped needle, then picked up with tweezers and vacuumed before the new stitching began, above.

The factors that seem to have lead to the cut silk threads are the combination of heat and smoke the piece was subject to over a century, combined with the sturdiness of the wool next to the silk thread.  Overtime, the wool pulled gently on the brittle silk.

While Kate was not hired to infill the lower area that would be covered,
she did give our client a bit of free time because the line across where the piece
might be cut or turned under needed stabilization.  Kate did not take the time
to color match the green-golds in that bottom band.

As part of the documentation bits of the historic fibers are placed into
document bags.  In addition, extra bits of the threads used were also
given to our client in case a small bit was necessary.

This is not a museum object, which if it were, might be approached a bit differently.
The truth of the historic fiber colors would have yielded a garish contrast to
the now faded threads if Kate matched the threads she found buried on the back our client’s textile.  Instead, she choose to strike a balance, knowing that the piece was
once a vibrant rendition of a woman sitting under a canopy of trees and possibly an arbor, on a bench, with a bright picnic spread ready to share.  It has pink, red, turquoise, bright blue, and brilliant red-golds in the figures under vibrant green trees.  Kate choose a warmer, darker version of the Autumn colors, and browned versions of the
pink and red, in order to create a pleasing piece for the family.

The textile is ready for the next leg of the journey, which is framing to preserve the work done and the tapestry,framed by Deann Holtz, who trained in proper textile framing.

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Washington State Flag, Mixing Paint

I created test sheets for oil versions of George.
Two coats of shellac seals the paper for the oil paint.
It is nice to use up old shellac which can no longer be used on furniture!

Phthalo Green and Chromium Oxide Green mixed match the green silk.
I want to paint the paper I am doing trials on green, because paints will change considerably when painted on bright white, cream, or the lovely green of the silk.

I also painted a sheet to go behind my mixing tray.  I tore the rectangular sheets so
they created the square on which I would paint George’s face, leaving me test papers.

I am mixing the paints today, and they will completely dry before I venture close
to the historic flag with the sample sheets.  NO chances are taken, ever!
It appears the darker colors will be the ones I want to double-check
against the historic flag, because the darker blues and greens and browns
tend to change radically when a flash hits them, shown above,
and I am mixing against images, not the historic.

A side note: I had a color blind friend who decided that he wanted to please himself in his apartment, instead of having someone else pick paint colors for his friends to see.
I won a bet against my whole tribe of architectural buddies that I could match exactly the hideous salmon pink paint color he painted his kitchen!  This is to say I am fairly confident I will come close in these colors, to blending the right mixes for George.

I have a few zones of color to explore in matching and blending:
coat (collar and body, buttons and epaulets); hair; skin; background, which is a green
that changes over the body of the medallion from a greyed-green to a blue-green.

The collar is a blend of Naples Yellow, moving to a creamier version with the Titanium-Zinc White, and going darker with Raw Sienna, Asphaltum, or Burnt Umber.  I will want to hold up the darker mixtures to double check them against the original flag.
The buttons and epaulets demand brilliance with added Gold Ochre.
(Gold Ochre is the second from the bottom; Yellow Ochre below is too dull.)

The blues were hard to see when looking at the images.
I see the body of the uniform as an Indanthrone or Prussian base,
with Cobalt Blue added to either to mix.  The blue is not one color,
but changes across the uniform as the light and shadow play.

I was prepared to mix George’s skin tones, but Gamblin’s Caucasian Flesh was a
such a good base match from which to mix.  George’s face is a challenge to reproduce, because I am not adept at portraits, and his is full of color!  I am looking it not as if it is a face, but a landscape to reproduce.  For the slight blush or ruddy skin tone it will be Cadmium Red Light or Medium.  Gold Ochre plays into areas around the eyes
and just above the eyebrow.  I played with the d=shadow, adding Asphaltum,
Burnt Umber, and Raw Sienna… none were quite right.  I remembered Robert Gamblin talking about Torrit Grey, and squished all my palette paint leftovers together,
and mixed them into a grey — THAT GREY looks like the right shadow color!

The green background moves from a darkened Phthalo Green (slightly blue)
to Chromium Oxide Green highlighting his face, lifting your eyes up.
The greens chosen to mix (bottom of the blues) are the second, fourth, and fifth —
with a little Naples Yellow thrown in!

George’s hair is not pure white, though he has a good deal of white in it.
I see touches of grey, and Gamblin’s Warm Grey or a blend of Naples Yellow and Titanium-Zinc White.  In shadow at the bottom of the curls is Paynes Grey.

I cannot hope to create an exact replica, but I am attempting to recreate
the painted medallion with the types of strokes and colors and looseness
the original artist used when s/he painted George.

Note: 2 test sheets were created
so the DAR can have one copy.

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

MPFC will be posting from time to time as we make interesting progress to share;
sign-up for posts if you are interesting in following the progress.

Visit our next post, Washington State Flag 9!

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Washington State Flag, Tracings

The Flag Room is staged for the duration of the project.

Black foam-core lines the walls waiting for the silk to be stretched upon.
The silk will be attached to the foam-core for stability.

The center table, currently used to lay the historic flag upon while the tracings
are created, below, will eventually be a work table, and the historic flag, for the time
we are allowed to keep it, will rest on the far table, covered and wrapped as it was delivered to us, with one exception.   The historic flag came to us folded in two places, leaving pressure marks on the face of the flag, a pitfall of not having a
conservator properly pack the flag.  Fortunately, as it was not stored folded for a long time, these were temporary marks and released over a few weeks and with gentle pressure placed across the surface.  We advise against folding in any case, as every time
the historic flag is folded it wears on the old silk and passementerie.
Textiles become brittle as they age even in the best circumstances, and the tiny breaks from folding are often not noticed until they grow to a noticeable tear.

The fold marks brought to our attention the stiffness of the silk, and we wondered if the entire flag was sized, not just the painted medallion. However, without testing that will remain conjecture.  Note the line made, right.  We assume it is a guide line.  Note the color of the silk, imperceptible unless one is searching, on both sides of the line. If only the medallion was sized, the silk would change color in this area.

Before tracing, Mitchell and I made the final decisions on the particulars
of the reproduction, and these, two, are to be laid into the tracings.

1/16-inch clear rigid acrylic is laid upon the historic flag for protection.
(Two persons centered and laid it gently to ensure the safety of the flag.)
This allows us to take overall patterns of the painting and the details,
without risking marking or tearing the flag.

On heavy vellum, the entire tracing is created.
Every detail of the flag was all measured and another set of details photographed.
Along the way, notes are taken of the oddities of the passementerie and the painting.

The first oddity is that the flag itself is not symmetrical.
It ranges from 34.5″ to 35.5 inches wide, and the length slightly droops
(or so it appears, as we are not hanging the flag nor pulling on it.)

The hand-painted letters are all a bit different, one from the next,
which leads us to surmise that a template was not used.
Three different “S” letters: the angled beginnings and ends of the letter are different,
and as most “S” letters will be symmetrical in their circular form, or bottom heavy,
it appears that the “S”in “STATE” (above)
is upside down from a lettering perspective, as it is top heavy!
Four different “E” letters (above): top heavy, bottom heavy, or perfectly even.
I wonder if the same person worked on the flag from start to finish!
The “A” letters are the most alike, above and below.
My inclination is to try to reproduce the anomalies…
It is harder to reproduce anomalies than to simply pick one of each letter to replicate.

The seal and drawing of George, as I am beginning to call him,
on the large tracing is for placement only.

As we are not to have the historic flag in our studio for the duration of the project (WA DES requested it back for storage), every aspect of the passementerie must be noted.  The twisted braid (with eyelets) which was positioned by hand into the floral motif, is not evenly spaced, also evidence that the braid was not created before application, ready to place onto the silk, but hand applied by the seamstress or tailor. I note the center line and spacing of the braid, and in doing so note that the dimensions are variable, and sometimes it is not perpendicular.  While taking these patterns we are creating a final count of yardage for the various types of passementerie.

We also have worked out our various design issues, such as creating a silk loop which the gimp trim applies to, which will make the loops stronger than the historic flag loops.

Our largest pattern, above, outlines the most general items.
Notes cover our sizes.

Finally, there are the tracings for George’s reproduction.
(Sorry for the images; hard to photograph pencil!).
I have several as we are creating studies, then more than one silk set…
I want to make sure we have a good image, and this is the first time I’ve painted on silk.


To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

MPFC will be posting from time to time as we make interesting progress to share;
sign-up for posts if you are interesting in following the progress.

Visit our next post, Washington State Flag 8.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Washington State Flag: Gamblin Paints

Mary Weisenburger and Dave Bernard in front of the color squares at the new factory.

I might’ve struggled through trail and error and testing
on many phases, but thankfully, we are fortunate to share Portland
as our home base with Gamblin Artist Colors,
home to both the best oil paints and also, home to Gamblin Conservation Colors.

As with the NPS Mason Monterey project, Gamblin saved me money and time
on trial and error, this time offering me advice toward painting on silk.
Dave Bernard helped me choose or validated my choices on several paint colors,
especially as it came to the way the colors are produced,
and how the various ingredients will present on silk over time.
And also, those times when conservators I spoke with discouraged me from the project,
he became my cheering section, saying, “Of course this can be done!”
(He is shown above with Mary Weisenburger, who,  along with Dave,
answered questions on the Silver Circus Ball.  I never work with metallic paints!)

I drove out to pick up our order to their new location.
The new place is giving them a lot more space, and is ordered properly for a
company that knows what it needs to operate!  I went on a tour of the new digs…
which is why you are being given a behind-the-scenes at Gamblin tour.

Lauren and Kaitlin say hey from their new desks!

When I walked in I was so sad that the color swatch wall was gone!
My first visit to Gamblin to discuss the Monterey project, I’d run my hands over the squares, and said,
“This color!  And this color!”
Being able to see the paints large made my initial choices so easy!  Thankfully, they are not gone, but now brighten the wall next to the warehouse entry and the door to Pete Cole’s office (CEO.)  Looking through his door, see that art on the wall?  You will recognize it from the
various swatches on their site.

We started in the farthest corner, which is where boxes and containers  of raw ingredients come into the facility and stored.  The flow chart of the layout makes sense from the raw ingredients entering (farthest) to the shipping area (nearest the offices.)

Mark and Phil are closest to the raw ingredients because they work with them…
Pulling them and measuring the formulas for the paint into the buckets for mixing.

I just missed a batch being mixed by Matt — which I’ve seen before and it is so cool.
(Image right, shamelessly stolen off the Gamblin site.)  Green was the color of the day, appropriate for a day I was picking up the Washington Flag paints.  The raw ingredients are ground over and over on the machine until silky smooth, then loaded into the 5 gallon bucket, center.

When the machine is cleaned between colors,
the white goop on the table, above right, is used, which draws pigment to itself.

Once the paint is mixed, it looks like smooth plastic (phthalo green I believe.)
Tom is lining the tub of green paint up on the tubing machine (my name),
which was bought used from a toothpaste company and modified for paints.
Each 5 gallon tub will make approximately 500 37ml and 125 of the larger 150ml tubes.
Gamblin could do this faster using a mechanized option,
but the downside is that more air is trapped in the tubes during a mechanized fill.
I’ve received tubes of acrylics or watercolors when the air made the contents harden.

Tubes are boxed, and then go into wholesale boxes, ready for shipping.
A look back at the large warehouse with the big fans (we were about to go into a heat wave) and said goodbye to my favorite wall!

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Labor Day in the Finish Studio

A post from dkatiepowellart… also Kate from MPF Conservation!

Labor Day weekend and we are laborers so we are working…
We have new A/C and I have a new lease on life
in my newly cleaned and reorganized studio!
I sat close to the door and tried to draw the entire room on a break.

AAACK!

I use pencil to lay out perspective but that thing is, something went wrong.
When a drawing is wrong there is little color will do to fix it… but I persevered.
Damn I am a master at perspective but this is not wonky, it is just wrong!

Cropping helped…  On this page it just looks wonky.
The Del Rey table is starting to walk out the door!

I have lots of Mason Monterey and Del Rey Monterey-style in my studio right now.
I took liberties as the desk in red is going to BE Spanish Red,
but now it is an extremely damaged Desert Dust.

Oh gads here is where the rails came off.
Everything is levitating…
Thank goddess this is not so or I’d have broken lovely California tiles….

To hear about classes, follow me on Facebook or
check out my new and improved dkatiepowellart.com and sign up for my newsletter!

“Memory is more indelible than ink.” Anita Loos, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
“I think not….”  Me.

   w16-9-24-pens-color-3-sq    w14-2-sick-buddha-faces-0-sq 

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Planter’s Chair: 3, Excavation, Back (Partial)

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.
We left off in the last posting with the Excavation of the seat.

We previously loosened the inside arms around the carvings.
Mitchell turns to the outside back, beginning with the arms,
and after noting the stitching pattern used, cuts the ties to the showcover.

Moving to the inside arms, showcover and then the secondary (not-original) top layer of cotton batting was removed, exposing the original buildup on the arms.

The last generation upholstery styling moved away from the traditional tufted back
in favor of a slip-backed style which accentuated the lumbar section of the inside back.  Mitchell cut the hand-stitching joining the lumbar section of the show cover,
revealing the original styling beneath.

The showcover drops, and we can inspect the inside back in its entirety for the first time.
New second generation layers of cotton batting and horse hair shown above.
A clue to various generations is the difference in the colors of the hair used.

The second generation cotton batting and horsehair is removed, labeled, and may be cleaned and reused if appropriate for the conservation of the inside back.

This is the original inside back, with the tufted buildup exposed.
The original upholsterer used a bit of horsehair around the buttons instead of cotton.


The top horsehair removed, the final pattern for the buttons of the tufting are exposed.
This appears to be filthy, and at first glance we thought it soot or carbon buildup,
but it is actually a topper of lint.  Flock or flocking is the common name attributed to this type of stuffing.  Flocking is lint findings left over from the cloth milling industry,
often used during the mid to late 19th century in stuffing seat squabs,
especially in England and France.  It was also occasionally teased out
onto second stuffing surfaces to act as a soft malleable batting.

A 17 oz hessian membrane was used in the original foundation work,
stretched across the steel hoop and lashed along the edges.
The stamped letters are likely to be from the mill for the hessian burlap.

Several things happen at this juncture.  Instead of the complete excavation, which is more typical, Mitchell took extensive patterns of the original inside back, above, which will be covered in the post on Upholstery Buildup.  He then chose to temporarily encase the entire inside back within a muslin wrap until frame repairs, finish repairs, and the seat buildup was completed.  This protected the historic inside back stuffings from losses in information through easing of the fibers during those treatment procedures.
Mitchell prefers to have the information from the excavation in his head as close
to the buildup/conservation time of a given part as possible…
in this case, after the seat buildup he will turn to the excavation of the inside back.

We move to the frame conservation, next post!

If you would be interested in notification of online classes coming next year, comment and we will save your email address.  It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Mason Monterey Smokey Maple Floral Bedroom Set

We are breaking up the Mason Monterey Smokey Maple Floral Bedroom Set circa 1932 and selling it by the piece.  Mason Monterey highly decorated and desirable floral pattern had one owner.  The set is in good condition, with little damage as described below.
(We are quite picky.)   All are in excellent condition structurally.  The original finish is lovely, as it should be, distressed but good. MPF Conservation performed slight touchup on knobs, center of the bed back where the owner laid against it.
Monterey name brand and horseshoe are on back.

We are breaking apart the set which means you can fill out your collection
as you need.  IF you are interested or want to make an offer on the entire set
(if still intact) contact Kate dbdcat @ aol.com (remove spaces).

Other pieces as we have them can be found here.

Wall Mounted Mirror

Mirror is in good condition with the original mirror intact.
Original paint, no touchup.  Can ship.

$950.00 plus shipping.

4-drawer Highboy Dresser

Dresser is in excellent structural condition;
original paint in nearly flawless Smokey Maple.
Knobs are original paint color, one touched up.
Drawer skids are in good condition.
37 x 18-inches.

$950 plus shipping.

Desk with Drawer

Desk with Drawer Desk is in excellent structural condition,
with original paint in nearly flawless Smokey Maple.
Knobs are original paint color, one touched up.
Drawer skids are in good condition.
37 x 18-inches.

$750 plus shipping

Twin Bed

Sturdy, all parts original.  Side support needs to be attached and we can do this for you ($50) or you can do it yourself.  Original paint in nearly flawless Smokey Maple.  Some touchup on the inside back where the head rested and one of the flowers on the stile.

$SOLD

We accept cash, check, money order or PayPal;
PayPal is charged an additional 2.9% processing fee
(what they charge us) which is $29 per $1000.
Local delivery negotiated or you can pick it up;
Delivery out of the Portland area to be determined.
Contact us for further information or to place order: dbdcat @ aol.com (remove spaces).

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How to Talk to an Artisan or Contractor

*this teaching moment applies to many types of situations…
nothing here intended to be derogatory —
just silly sweeping generalizations and fiction!*

You have a lovely valuable antique (above) worth $5000 that needs work.
Here are several scenarios and what it may get you, especially with people who are not seasoned in the business and know to qualify whether you know what you are asking for:

To an ingénu who does not know to qualify:
*ring*
“Hello, I have a cabinet that needs refinishing.”
“I’m sorry, we don’t refinish furniture.
I recommend you call Joe’s Strip-N-Dip Studio.”

“Thanks”
*now you will be taking your lovely antique to someone who may strip and dip it and ruin the finish, patina, ruin the veneers or permanently alter/ruin the structure*

To Joe’s Strip-N-Dip Studio refinisher:
*ring*
“Hello, I have a cabinet that needs refinishing.”
“Great!”
“How long will it take?  Can I drop it by today?”
“Anytime.  It will take about two weeks.”
“Thanks”
*now you will be taking your lovely antique to someone who will strip-and-dip it
and devalue the historical and monetary value and possibly ruins the veneer or structure… understand not all refinishers are cavalier and many do not dip-and-strip (pan stripping) and many understand the value of an original finish… we know such refinishers, they know when not to touch an antique, and are very good…
and you don’t just drop it off and have it in two weeks.
they are busy because they are GOOD.*

To a seasoned conservator who knows you may not know what you need:
*ring*
“Hello, I have a cabinet that needs refinishing.”
“I’m Mitchell; may I have your name?”
“Joe Bloe.”
“Can I ask you a bit about the piece?”
“Yes.”
*mitchell and j.bloe proceed to have a conversation that talks about the cabinet above and mitchell explains that refinishing will ruin the veneer and is unnecessary
and how a conservator like ourselves might handle the situation and now, we’ll ask you to send us an image to begin the process of working together….*

“Thanks”
*now you will be taking your lovely antique to someone who knows what it needs*

☾☾☾

Think about it.  When you call your doctor you don’t tell them that you need a by-pass.  You tell them you are having chest pains.  You talk about symptoms.

And yet, more often than not, people who call artisans and contractors,
refinishers and conservators will say what their furniture piece needs to have done.
I learned this early on in my time designing for contractors, when a very good cabinetmaker told me that I should draw the elevations and visual details of how I wanted a cabinet to look, and they would provide the working drawings for me if I wanted the best price.  Sometimes architects spend a good amount of time drawing mundane details when in fact the way they tell the cabinetmaker to build the cabinets will double the price and may not even be as well-built as if the cabinetmaker offers their expertise.

So next time, try this:
*ring*
“Hello, my name is Josephine Iwannadothisright.
I have a valuable heirloom veneered French cabinet that has some issues
(tell them as much as you know about the history/type of object).
I found you in Google under conservators (or however you found them).
Do you do this type of work?”
“Hi Josephine.  Mitchell here.  What issues can you see?
What made you think your cabinet needs treatment?”

“Some wood is lifting on the face.  It also looks like it is bleached or has lost color.
This cabinet has been in my family for a long time and I know it is at least 100 years old.”
“Is it possible for you to take an overall image of the cabinet and also a detail of the issues and send it to us so we can see what we are discussing?”
“Yes.” or “No, I’m bad with a camera.”
*either one of these will result in the next level, a first pass via photo
or a on-site assessment.  from there mitchell will be offering an estimate,
making suggestions for the overall health of the cabinet as mitchell will possibly see issues that j.bloe didn’t see (a door hinge is failing), and our new client will decide what choices s/he wants to make, fully understanding the choices they are making.
*

Other tips:

  • The specialist you like working with may be the best resource
    in future for recommendations on other items.  Ask them.
  • Don’t assume that a site of artisans or restorers or even museums has vetted their list;
    ask to see examples and check out their resume; ask questions!
  • Good artisans usually are a bit busy, be prepared to wait or make a
    compelling argument/request as to why you need to come first!
  • When it comes to a valuable antique, will often want to come and
    pick it up / deliver it themselves unless it is quite small.

©MPF Conservation
You may republish on a blog if you link back to this post.

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V&A: Moulding a Marcel Breuer Chair Seat

This is fun!  I want to know how they made the mould!

“Standard flat plywood boards cannot be moulded into curved shapes. To form curved plywood, glue is spread over layers of thin, cross-grained veneers which are placed in a mould. Pressure is then applied to hold the veneers together in the desired shape while the glue sets. Depending on the type of glue used, the mould may need to be heated. Once the glue has set and the cross grained veneers have been joined as a single shape, the material becomes plywood.

This film shows a contemporary version of Marcel Breuer’s Short Chair being made at the Isokon Plus workshop, London. A two part (concave and convex) mould is used to form the chair’s seat. Glued, cross-grained veneers are laid between the two parts which are then held together under pressure in a press. Once the glue has set, the seat is removed from the mould, ready for trimming and finishing.”

More on molded plywood on the V&A site!

 

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A Quirky Conservation Project

 

You just have to see the video!

 

.

 

 

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Planter’s Chair: 2, Excavation, Seat, Continued

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
(You can begin here, if you like.)
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.

We left off in the last posting with the seat partially excavated.

Removing the second generation hair topper,
we encounter an original hair topper, properly lashed to the seat deck.
He notes the lashing pattern, then cuts and lifts it.
The seat deck hessian is exposed; after vacuuming we inspect it.

Mitchell wears a mask when he is excavating after encountering molds and
various types of dust and debris which can mess with your lungs!

Lashing patterns noted, and details of the fit.
We loosened the inside arms to inspect the carvings and connections.

Above, an example of what careless upholsterers do to frames, including carvings,
or when the frame maker does not include tacking foundations which allow for tacking without encroaching into decorative elements.  Mitchell will change the frame slightly to include a tacking block to preserve the carving from future mistakes..
We will repair the lovely carving.

There is damage to the connection between the carving and the metal frame on both arms,
also to be repaired.  This may be a wear-and-tear issue, or possible a design issue.
These are the types of issues we discuss with clients as we find them.

The original fiber seat pod comes off, to be cleaned and conserved.
The spring deck is exposed.  Over the years the hessian stretches on both
spring deck and seat deck to conform to the stresses.
Lashing patterns are noted.

Spring deck burlap is removed, and we see the original springs.
We inspect the dirt (we find odd bits sometimes, including coins) and vacuum the debris.

The springs are heavy rolled steel, which we will clean and conserve.
Mitchell notes the tie patterns, but does not cut the ties yet.
He usually does not cut ties until the last moment necessary.
He also counts and notes the tie hole patterns,
as he lifts the tacks holding ties to the frame.

The chair is turned over, and under the dustcover we see two layers of
webbing applied in order to save the springs.
This second layer (top) is the creamy webbing above, not lashed to the springs below.

The first webbing applied over the original in order to save the springs
is the darker herringbone webbing in a criss-cross pattern.
It was also not lashed in any manner to the springs.
As Mitchell removed webbing, he notes holes and tack positions.  They tell the story of the number of times the chair has been upholstered and in what manner.

Mitchell is down to the original webbing, properly woven in a basketweave pattern,
and can say he knows the history of the webbing patterns, which,
along with tacks from upholstering showcovers and hessian,
and after noting and marking the spring tie tack patterns,
gives us clue as to the number and nature of the upholsterings.
He feels secure in that the chair was reupholstered twice in its lifetime beyond the original,
and the person who performed the second upholstering did not retie the springs.

The seat drops out!


Some of Mitchell’s musings about the Planter’s Chair…
The woods… European Beech (frame) was not commonly imported in the states.
Persimmon wood (carving) is native to India, but was grown all over the south,
and even into the colonies, which offers other clues.
The original webbing and subsequent webbings were uncommon to the USA,
but found in England and Europe.
The contraction and patina of the foundational woods (European Beech),
and the excessive rusting of tacks and metal objects were consistent with exposure to very high humidity, such as might be found where there is good rainfall and relatively high temperatures, and possibly salty air.  This information, coupled with what little provenance was available, led Mitchell to surmise the piece may have lived in France (where it began life) but also lived in either the tropics or a city like New York.
The fact that it is a planter’s chair, with carvings reflecting plants that grow in tropical regions (sugarcane or tobacco) makes him lean toward Latin American or the Caribbean.

The seat is fully excavated,
and we move to the inside back, next post!
(I suggest you turn off the music!)

 If you would be interested in notification
of online classes coming next year, comment
and we will save your email address.
It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Planter’s Chair: 1, Excavation, Seat

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860.
We’ll follow the chair through excavation to the new show-cover.
An overview of the process, from one vantage point, below.

We begin with excavation.
Excavation is the discovery process, and we are always shocked at the thought
that many people give this job to the youngest interns with little oversight.
The more experienced you are the more valuable the information
gleaned during these beginning stages:
where the piece may have lived;
personal predilections of the individuals using the pieces;
the environment in which the piece lived;
tracking of dates when various upholsterings took place,
the regions where various upholsterings took place.
Some of Mitchell’s musings are at the bottom of this post.

We take more images during excavation that any other phase.
There is so much history, both original and secondary upholsterings,
to document while undoing of the piece.
Also, sometimes we want to go back and see
what our eyes did not connect as important in the first stage…

This excavation was performed in two parts,
which we will explain as we get to the breaking point.
This is the excavation of the seat.

Passementerie is the last item to be applied and the first to come off the chair,
which is how it goes down through the layers.  A bit like an archeological excavation.
Conservators are interested in preserving the  history of an object.
To that end, we save samples and items as they are removed, noting their location.
When the project is completed, they are given to the client in part or whole,
and/or we keep interesting samples for ourselves.
You might not know what part of the story an item or mark informs.
This is also when we make our final assessment fo our client,
and may need to tell the client if changes in the estimate are necessary.

Turning the chair over, we find a tag which tells us that this chair was
sold secondhand with this showcover, including who performed the fumigation.
This tells us it was sold before the mid 1970a, when the State of Oregon stopped
the fumigation laws for secondhand upholstered item sales.

What appear to be original ceramic wheels are in good condition.

The showcover is removed from the seat.
Mitchell finds a layer of paper-wrapped cotton (wadding), popular with
European upholsterers in the early 20th century, at the probable time of the
second generation upholstery, suggesting it took place in Europe.
The wadding is no longer obtainable in the states.
He also gets his first glimpse of the bottom of the metal back frame.
Samples of passementerie and fabric are kept.

Already we know that we have a missing decorative scroll to be replicated.

As I photograph the chair, I can see that there is no way to get a symmetrical view,
and Mitchell looks at the frame with new eyes.  The back and two legs are badly twisted.
As we move through other phases you will see how asymmetrical the chair’s become.
It  is quite sturdy, and not in danger of tipping or breaking.
Causation of the twisting in the metal back frame may be due to someone sitting oddly,
favoring their right side (much like I do, even when on the puter!)

We see the first evidence of an earlier fabric, which we soon identify as a green velvet.
Usually we see bits of earlier fabrics; this time only one.

Mitchell begins to remove layers of the seat, documenting as we go.
The first three layers are from the current upholstered showcover, most likely:
two layers of cotton toppers, and a horsehair pad.
We surmise the chair had between one to three showcovers.
Good fabric, proper foundations, and proper care can make a show cover last a long time.

All materials are cleaned and reused unless there are issues of body fluids, etc.

The seat is partially excavated;
we will continue excavating the original materials
in the seat next post!

If you would be interested in notification
of online classes coming next year, comment
and we will save your email address.
It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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French Planter’s Chair

We are properly conserving a French-made Planter’s Chair, circa 1860,
belonging to a Portland preservationist.
Hand carved persimmon wood, European Beechwood frame,
original innards, unmolested finish.
We’ll follow the chair in detail through excavation to the new show-cover.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

We will begin with excavation, next post!

If you would be interested in notification
of online classes coming next year, comment
and we will save your email address.
It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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All Hide Glues are NOT Equal

Not all commercial hide glues are equal.
We want to make sure you are using the good stuff,
even for a temporary repair you may want to make on your own furniture.
Also, a furniture repair person may say they use hide glue.  Be savvy enough to ask them what type of hide glue… then decide whether you’ll take grandmother’s table for repairs!

Years ago we made our
hide glue in the pot, right, now retired into service
as a wax-making pot.  Cooking, decanting, warming for use in
syringes or onto Kate’s  kitchen plates, keeping
it warm was a messy and smelly part of our conservation  business.
(Mitchell says it is the
smell of success!)

We didn’t use Titebond Liquid Hide Glue because despite its name, it contains other ingredients (see below) and has qualities unsuitable for conservation.

Now the only time we make our own glue is if has to be
fish glue or rabbit hide glue, which is rarely.  A colleague, Patrick Edwards,
makes Old Brown Glue. At first he only sold to fellow conservators, but now,
Old Brown Glue can be bought from their website and several woodworking supply stores.
The beauty of Old Brown Glue is the ingredients: hydrolyzed collagen and urea —
that’s all!  No more “i-wonder-what-that-is” chemical additives.
Now Mitchell warms a bowl of water in the microwave, decants Old Brown Glue into syringes or 5oz bottles, and drops them into the warm water to warm.
The only smelly part is when he is slathering it on to affix parts!

Hide glue is non-toxic, organic, safe for the environment,
has no cautions other than common sense (don’t pour it in your eyes),
is reversible (very important for conservation) with warm water or vinegar,
but has kept antique furniture together for centuries!
You don’t waste money using hide glues, because you can always harden leftovers
and store it to melt another day! (Video below)

The Old Brown Glue website has several good articles
and facts about using his hide glue, including  Why Not Period Glue?
When you place an order, tell them we sent you!

Coming soon, gap-filling, the employment of adhesives,
and strategies toward structural viability of bruised and damaged joinery.

If you would be interested in notification of online classes coming next year, comment and we will save your email address.  It will be used by no one else for any other purpose.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

Notes from Wikipedia and the MSDS for Titebond Liquid Hide Glue, which contains the following: ammonium thiocyanate; dicyandiamide 461-58-5 (Cyanoguanidine, used in the adhesive industry as a curing agent for epoxies.[1]), and polyalkene glycol (PAGs).

Posted in antiques, CAUTIONS, conservation techniques, preservation, reparation, restoration techniques, wooden objects | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Lianne’s Linen Sampler Ca 1806


Lianne’s Great-great-great-GREAT grandmother, Hannah Epes, completed this sampler on June 26th, 1806, when she was 10 years old.  It came to us in the sweet old handkerchief box her grandmother kept it in, above, a keepsake.

I like hearing the history of the pieces from our clients, and
Lianne is willing to let me share it.  Hannah had a rough life.
She married Charles Whitmarsh in 1814 when she was just 18.
Their first daughter was born two years later, and died at
4 1/2 months, the same age their fourth son also died.
Their second daughter was born in 1817 and died when she was 9 years old.
They had three sons and two more daughters, all  of whom lived to adulthood,
though the eldest daughter died young.  Charles died in 1838.
She remarried a man named John Hornby in 1841.
He died in 1856, and Hannah died in 1867.


7 3/4 inches x 11 inches, the sampler was dirty,
though Lianne had tried cleaning it herself.

There was a small hole in the linen on the back in the hem,
but otherwise, no loose or broken threads or other structural damage
was found that might affect the cleaning process.

Cleaning seems a simple item, but can permanently damage a textile.
It is important that a proper conservator determine cleaning protocol.
Embroidery threads were assessed for dye movement,
and as none was found, the sampler was gently cleaned.
Dust and dirt was released from the sampler into a proper solution.
The process of cleaning was repeated three times,
then the sampler was thoroughly rinsed, and laid to dry flat.

Acid free tissue will wrap the sampler.
Remember to change the acid free tissue once a year,
as the tissue will absorb acids in the environment.

No job too small.
Your items are important to us!

©MPF Conservation.
Blog posts may be reposted; please link back to mpfconservation.me.

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Texaco Fire Chief Gasoline Banner

Growing up in Southern California, the home of the automobile,
I remember fondly this emblem as a kid!

The Texaco Fire Chief Banner was in excellent condition, but dirty and creased.
The back appeared to have been dropped into dirt, and creased areas were
especially dirty with brown to charcoal marks, and in two places, what appeared to be
very old light shoe prints walking across charcoal on the back.

Testing

Our first step was to test for two issues, test images above:
Are the banner’s prints colors likely to move?
Will the various types of dirt move?

This banner was meant to hang outside, so water moving color was not an anticipated problem.  However, we were concerned about the printed color moving with various cleansers, and as some of the black grime appeared to be grease, we might need a cleanser.

Always we start with deionized water, and it is surprising what moves with patience and soaking, along with light movements to loosen the surface diet.  A good deal of dirt loosened in the test, with little movement of a soft brush or sponge.

However, rubbing gently moved the printed color fairly easily.

We tested a surfactant and a mild detergent meant for textiles.
Neither moved color, however, as we moved through the cleaning, neither moved the dirt any better than the deionized water with two exceptions.

Surface Dirt versus Staining / Deeply Embedded Dirt

Most of the dirt on the banner was surface, meaning it was sitting on top of the canvas.  Surface dirt can be seen in a magnifying glass, and it also looks more dusty, to use a layman’s terms, than runny or wet.

There are still safety issues with removing surface dirt,
especially as the worst dirt was on the back side.
If it was gotten too wet the fear was it would transfer through the canvas
onto the front side, and not knowing what it was, but seeing a half-dozen stains,
we did not want to chance it spreading and staining.
A damp sponge and patience wicked quite a lot of surface dirt off
first the back side, then the front, allowing me to then go a bit
deeper in wetting areas to see what happened to the stains.
Rubbing of any kind was out of the question except with soft tools in
extremely filthy spots on the unprinted canvas in good condition (no rips or wear spots.)


I am happy to report a good amount of success,
and no losses except the 1/8-inch area I tested, and will never reveal!

Some stains would not move at all. 

One was a mysterious green mark,
above, and also present to a larger degree on the back.
It looked a bit like crayon, and we did no chemical tests,
which are generally not used in private collections;
I believe it is paint, which textured like crayon as it moved across the canvas.
The other are the half-dozen large runny spots.
Perhaps they lightened a tiny bit, but I cannot tell, and they still are,
disappointingly, large and there for all the world.
They appear to have happened when the banner was folded,
as almost all fall on crease lines.  Perhaps a ceiling drip, which comes through with
wet dirt and whatever materials are in the roof/ceiling structure.

Final cleaning and Pressing

A final cleaning was full submersion, a light soak and then gentle manipulation.
This last bit removed almost all the last of the dirt,  and brightened the whole banner!
Hanging to air dry took out many of the old creases, however,
another oddity was that while we were able to iron the banner,
a couple of creases would not release!

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Washington State Flag, Testing and Our Finalist!

Never underestimate the benefits of testing materials.
I am by nature an impatient artist and tend to dive into art materials
and experiment when it is my own art processes, however,
with clients, I read, I test products, and it serves me well.


After we narrowed our silks to proper colors,
we tested Gamblin’s PVA Size on the silk samples stretched
(as the silk will be stretched when Washington is painted) on embroidery hoops.

A word about the search for color, and why we expanded the search to include silk blends.  The silks we found available in the colors needed were often a very light weight,
measured in mommes.**   (See definition below, pronounced moe-me,
though it often sounds like mommy in the USA,
which frankly had me cracking up every time it was said to me.)
We reached out for blends in other natural materials, such as cotton and rayon.
Some of these blends were more expensive than the lovely silk!
By expanding out materials to include blends,
we found sturdy fabrics that suited our requirements.

All of the materials in the running were tested: eight samples.
(Shown above, one of the likely candidates after testing was completed.)
The reasons for the odd pattern to the testing is that I wanted to see how
the PVA buildup effected the fabric, and so noted the manner in which I built up the size:
One coat on half the back, and several coats on the front,
beginning with a full coat covering the entire circle, then half,
then a quarter (three front coats), with dry time in between.


The PVA tests seriously narrowed the field.  Example: the Sunsilk silk sample above
was a candidate, despite the slight texture, but after testing and seeing how the PVA changed the texture dramatically, Sunsilk’s two colors were dropped.

Our final choice for the fabric was a lovely cotton/silk blend from Osbourne & Little.
Two colors work well in both bright light and soft light, shown above and below,
and the fabric has the right sheen for the reproduction to come close to the original flag.


These samples are on their way to our DAR partners,
so they can choose the final color.

Meanwhile, cuts from the dye lots are on their way from England
for our approval to match against the samples in our possession.
Dye lots can vary, and in recent years some have varied quite a lot.
We have both colors on hold for us, pending approval.
MOST companies do not take this long for dye lot samples
but O&L has their own unique way of doing business!

Next, what we are doing while
waiting for fabric to arrive!

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

MPFC will be posting from time to time as we make interesting progress to share;
sign-up for posts if you are interesting in following the progress.

Visit our next post, Washington State Flag 7.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

**From Wikipedia, the definition of mommes: “…traditionally used to measure silk fabrics, the weight in pounds of a piece of fabric if it were sized 45 inches by 100 yards (1.2 m by 90 m). One momme = 4.340 g/m²; 8 mommes is approximately 1 ounce per square yard or 35 g/m².  The momme is based on the standard width of silk of 45 inches (1.2 m) wide.  The higher the weight in mommes, the more durable the weave, and the more suitable it is for heavy-duty use, and, the heavier the silk, the more opaque it becomes. This can vary even between the same kind of silk. For example, lightweight charmeuse is translucent when used in clothing, but 30-momme charmeuse is opaque.”

Posted in antiques, decorative motifs, Interim Report, painted objects, process, reproduction, textiles | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Washington State Flag, “So you say you have contenders…”

A caveat in posting a rant, however humorous.
There are some excellent showrooms,
and we are grateful and support them whenever we can. 
The rant below is a glimpse into what can happen and does happen when two seasoned professionals have to get an exact color fabric, as we are doing on the DAR project,
and have to go beyond our favorite showrooms and work with places near and far. 

There are also amazing fabric companies that have weathered the great recession.
However, the point to this (and there is a point) is if you have
a designer or upholsterer or conservator who tells you that
the fabric sample they showed you a week before which you fell in love with is discontinued or out of stock,
this offers you a glimpse into what can happen in between.

This follows on the post regarding the contenders.


I am going to honestly give you a glimpse of the next steps in the
vetting of green silks with names removed to protect the innocent…
*i could not make this up and be believable*
All I wanted was the wholesale price and in stock quantities on ten samples of silks
that we vetted only two weeks ago…  from a few showrooms!

*it took 3 hours to call the showrooms… truth!*

Mitchell called the X company and gave him the two silk product numbers.
“No such number in our computer.”
Mitchell reiterated that he got it off the Z home site in a color search less than a week ago and to look again… for goodness sake, the two color samples came from their showroom!
*seriously, the showroom stamp is right on the sample*
“No, no such fabric in our showroom, and it is not on my computer.”
Meanwhile I am pulling it up online and there it is, but X said it doesn’t exist.
So I call back and this time I get a different person at company X.
*this man is snotty… he is always snotty!
i really don’t like to order much from them because
i’ve never gotten the memo that to be ultra cool you have to be snotty*
However, I give him the URL I am looking at and explain the situation above.
Again, he can’t see it.
I repeat the URL again.
“No.”
I then say, “Google Z silk then click green then you will see it.”

*bingo*

*now i really don’t get why he can’t see it if i give him the URL
but can if he googles it so there you are, another cyberspace mystery*

X says he can’t order this fabric and I ask why, explaining I don’t want to spend another hour + the time ordering samples on another fabric sometime for fabric I can’t buy.
*there must be some logic, right?*
X says perhaps we can only get Z fabric in Europe?
Whaaa?
*makes no sense to me…*
Why did you have the sample sent from your showroom?

*they hate my logic.*
He will call me back.

*while i am waiting and waiting and getting ready for my next call
  mitchell and i talk about how the USA is a pretty big place with lots of fabric customers.
why is it that
the huge famous fabric company can’t sell all their silk colors in the USA?*
X company calls back and says he does have one of the colors, and gives me
the wholesale price and yardage available, but the other is discontinued.
Oh, and, he may not have 4×4-inch samples of the color for me.
Whaaaa?
*we need more than one so that other members in the DAR can approve the material.
i unabashedly begin to beg.  i don’t want 45 minutes of my life wasted due to him hoarding memo samples on a viable color after so much looking
(greens are not in style) as we have given many orders over the years
and i am not putting up with this….

pride is pride and i need samples.*

Finally.  Three samples on their way from company X, special order.

Now to the next company for another set of samples.

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

MPFC will be posting from time to time as we make interesting progress to share;
sign-up for posts if you are interesting in following the progress.

Visit our next post, Washington State Flag 5.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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Washington State Flag, NEVER Say “No Problem”

A whopping four decades I’ve been in the business
— even though I am ONLY going on fifty 🙂 —
and gads if this hasn’t taught me a huge lesson.

Never, ever, ever tell a client something is going to be easy.


In replicating the flag, we need to obtain two items:
a good replacement for the gold passementerie, and
the green silk for the flag.
I told our clients, the DAR, in passing that the passementerie might be difficult,
but to find the green silk would be easy-peasy.

NOT.


Mind you, I said this knowing that we have all of Sunsilks many colors
including several gorgeous greens in that range, a foresty-grass-green.  Viridian.
Plus we have a basket of greens from many other houses, because we match solid colors all the time, and saw at least another dozen of THESE EXACT green silks.

Discontinued or only in nubby dupioni!


We had one good choice but after ordering a test sample found it was out of stock and
not discontinued, per se, but just not going to be reordered.
*sigh*

The fabric industry transformed in the last decade into a fairly unpredictable industry.
We no longer ask clients to choose one fabric, but one-two-three,
because even if we just ordered samples,
the fabric might be gone within a short period of time!
Companies do not have lines that are crayola box colorful; they rely on color trends.
*I’m sick of turquoise and brown, and will be just as sick of the next “it” color trend.
Sick of pastels too!*


So the hunt for the right green silk began.  We started again with our top showrooms,
but instead of asking for a particular sample we asked for a range of solid green silks.
We began working our way into smaller and smaller showrooms and fabric companies.
I sent out the image of the five silks above for the color, and we also described the silks:
Not nubby, not too shiny, not a shot silk, preferably 100% silk, substantial,
a shantung or taffeta, and would look at a dupioni if not too textural.


Some of the choices sent I simply don’t understand —
perhaps they went by the name of a fabric, like Dublin?

So here we are, in the midst of SO many greens, and not one that fit.
I have to admit I was giving up and getting discouraged and tearing hair…
then Mitchell said ONE MORE TIME, and a month later…
We also opened the search up to silk + cotton, or silk + linen.


Three inches of stacked rejects… seven dozen green silks…
Three months of calling and visiting showrooms and
sorting and online looking and begging for one last lookaround…


And finally, we have contenders.
We will run our tests, evaluate (and honestly we have three stragglers coming),
order the rest of the duplicates, and then off to the DAR for final review.

WHEW.
Moral of the story, never say it will be easy!

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

MPFC will be posting from time to time as we make interesting progress to share;
sign-up for posts if you are interesting in following the progress.

Visit our next post, Washington State Flag 4.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

 

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Washington State Flag

The historic flag, above hanging on the wall of the Reception Room, a grand ballroom,
is not the flag in its original form, but seen with modifications.
How does that impact the replication process?  The decision has to be made to be authentic or to align with what visitors have seen daily.
We vote for authenticity when possible, and the DAR is in agreement.

Let’s look at examples of what we mean.

Note: Color differences due to varying lighting.

The original flag in its incarnation has been cared for with additions meant to assist in its preservation.  For instance, the loops (original, right), and above, were probably not quite sturdy enough for the amount of use the grand flag was given.  A velvet header was applied across the top later in it’s life; the loops were sewn onto the top of the velvet header.  The header supporting the loops is quite large and not in keeping with the original proportions, but saved the loops.  As we cannot open the original flag to see inside, we do not know how the interfacing attached; it may have pulled on the painted silk and contributed to its cracking over time.

We are recommending the flag be returned to its original design,
above, with reinforced loops which will go unnoticed.

What may be most shocking for most people is discovering the flag was originally a deep green, not the khaki color that everyone is used to seeing!  The color we are looking to as original is only seen in small bits under lose trims, above left.
Although it will be a surprise, we believe it should go back to the original green,
especially because that aligns with the information in the
State Flag Senate Resolution (April 1963) and the DAR NSDAR History.
Washington State, like most states, also outlines the proper parameters for flag replication, and these deeper colors are called for in reproductions.

As we make our final decisions there will be more updates —
I leave you with a bit of history in pictures, below, courtesy of the DAR and the Washington State Archives.  (Note the second image is the back of the first.)

To begin at the beginning, visit Washington State Flag, 1.

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Washington State Flag

W16 1 3 WA DAR FLAG 023My rendering of the Historic Flag, above.
Below, the Historic Flag in the State Reception Room.

w14-9-28-wa-des-historic-flag-00013 We begin the process of replicating the Washington State Flag originally
made by the Washington State chapters of the Daughters of the American Revolution (hereafter known as the DAR). The flag needs replication so the
original historic flag can be sent into archival storage for preservation and possibly conservation.   DAR members from across the State of Washington raised monies for this and in an age-old tradition, will be gifting the reproduction to their State.

w17-1-wash-dar-orig-flag-17Several parts of replication are in the works.

The silk for the new flag
must be matched from the smallest area of lifted trim, shown right — we cannot simply remove the trim and find a large patch of historic silk which has not faded to the khaki green that many
are used to seeing in the
State Reception Room.

w17-1-wash-dar-orig-flag-34Three types of gold passementerie must be found, shown above:
a looped picot trim;
a woven braid gimp; and,
a knotted tasselled chainette fringe.
It is possible but extremely costly to have them reproduced in small quantities,
however, we will come close.  Searches have begun in upholstery and dress couturier
shops  in the USA and in England, and among military reenactors.

w17-1-wash-dar-orig-flag-28Finally there is the painting of the medallion.

And accurate sketch must be made to scale of the original image.

Panels of silk will be stretched and primed to accept thin layers
of oil paint under the medallion location.

The sketch is transferred onto the silk;
the medallion will be hand-painted in oil by Kate Powell.

After the silk panel is completed, the reproduction banner will be sewn.

Below, the historic flag in our treatment rooms.

w17-1-wash-dar-orig-flag-27MPFC will be posting from time to time as we make interesting progress to share;
sign-up for posts if you are interesting in following the progress.

Visit our next post, Washington State Flag 2.

©MPF Conservation.  May be printed for your own use.
May be reposted if our url + copyright is used as reference.

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